Here is a compilation of some of the most frequently asked questions that I have received,  if you feel I have omitted something important, or you feel you have something of value you would like me to add...
PLEASE e mail me !
 

Question :

OK, I decided I want you to do some work on my gun, now what ?

I would like to order some of your parts, what do I need to do ?

What work would YOU recommend for my pistol ?

I still have questions, how can I contact you ?????

Do you accept credit cards or checks?

Why can't I talk to you on the phone?

Can I drop off my gun to you?

What is the LEGALITY of shipping my gun to you?

Will your "Short" trigger really make the reach to the trigger closer ?

What is the toughest finish for my gun ?

What exactly is your "DayGlo"  sight highlighting and can you do it on night sights ?

If I get my gun plated, should I have you do your work before or after I get the plating done ?

Why does your action job cost more than some of your competitors ?

Why does your plating cost more than some of your competitors ?

What do you think about the new Sig's ?

Why do you prefer Meprolight sights over the other brands ?

How much should I fire my gun before I send it in for action work ?

Should I replace all my springs when you do the work ?

Can you convert a P229 to double action only, if so how much would it cost w/ a trigger job?

How light can you make the trigger pull on my Sig DAK model?

Can you install night sights in my "xxxxx" gun?

How much would it be to install a compensator on my Sig or Beretta?

Can I use ANY ammo after you work on my action?

What ammo would you recommend for my CARRY gun?

What do you recommend for cleaning & oiling of my gun?

What is the difference between NICKEL and HARDCHROME?

Does the polish and removal of the protective blue coating on the internal leave the parts vulnerable to corrosion?

If you were to do a Level 1 or action job on my Sig would the single action slack (take-up) be removed or minimized?

Do you have any recommendations for a Holster?

What EXACTLY is your "TJ SIG-SAFE" safety device?
 

Q: OK, I decided I want you to do some work on my gun, now what ?

A: You simply send me your gun directly, via UPS or FedEx (NOT US MAIL / U.S. Postal service),
INCLUDE WORK PAYMENT IN THE BOX WITH YOUR GUN.
(CASH, Money Order, or Cashiers Check / Bank Check are the ONLY accepted payment methods)
(NO CREDIT CARDS, I.O.U.'s, Etc.)
Personally I recommend that you do not tell the "mail store clerk" that you are shipping a gun,
I suggest saying it is machine parts instead, but that is your judgment call, not mine.
I am a licenced FFL dealer and it IS legal to ship to me.
Please mark the outside of the box "DELIVER AFTER 11:00 AM ONLY"
DO make sure you insure the parcel for at LEAST the replacement cost + payments.
The delivery address for UPS or FedEx ONLY is:
TJ's Custom - 3347 Caroline Ave. - Culver City - CA - 90232
NO "DROP OFF" OR VISITORS ALLOWED - NO EXCEPTIONS
 

Q: I would like to order some of your parts, what do I need to do ?

A: Just send payment  (CASH (wrapped in newspaper etc.), Money Order, or Cashiers Check / Bank Check) to the address below with a request describing what it is you want to order, the model of your gun and the color / finish of the parts you are requesting.
Include an email address in case there is any problem or question I have about your order.
Make SURE your address is very readable & legible.
Parts are NOT insured unless you pay insurance charges ($5) and request insurance,
I am NOT responsible for parts once I deliver them to the post office.
( In case anyone missed it above, I do NOT accept ANY credit cards or Paypal EVER. )
 

Q: What work would YOU recommend for my pistol ?

A: I would start with a "Level 1 Package" (Typically $395) ( my Level 1 Package includes all the Action work & internal smoothing, a TJ stainless short rounded trigger (Sig 220, 225, 226, 228, 229) or customizing your existing trigger by rounding-radiusing-polishing (re-shaping it to be much more ergonomic and have a nice smooth silver finish), a throat & polish of the feed ramp & barrel to ensure a high level of feeding reliability, and fit & polish the extractor (to enhance case extraction as well as reduce the chance of extractor breakage).
I would also recommend my stainless steel hex grip screws (for Sig pistols) ($10),
Highlight the front sight in DayGlo (stock sights or night sights, same price $10),
If you carry the gun concealed I would definitely recommend "bobbing" the hammer ($75) (making it mandatory D.A.O. on the FIRST shot) or possibly if you still want to be able to cock the hammer manually, a semi bob ($125) (helps eliminate snagging when drawing from clothing), and if you do not have night sights already I recommend getting a set of Meprolight night sights ( Typically $145 - Sig ).  ( All + S/H ($39 )
Finish?  If you like silver,  Satin Hard Chrome finish is my favorite, or if you prefer a non-reflective finish I recommend my Black Teflon.
 

Q:  Will your "Short" trigger really make the reach to the trigger closer ?

A:  Not really, you see there is only about 1/8" of material that you have to play with there,
what my trigger does do (which the Sig trigger doesn't) by it's specific ergonomic design
and being more narrow and rounded, is that it guides your finger in so you tend to shoot with
the trigger in the crevice of your finger rather than shoot with the pad (your finger tip).
You see many people don't realize that a double action auto should be shot as a revolver,
NOT as a single action auto like a 1911.  On a 1911 you typically have a very minimal trigger travel distance and usually a very light break (pull).  You have more leverage and strength in your finger the closer you get to the inner part of your hand, so by shooting at the crevice, you will shoot more stable and will also have the illusion of a lighter trigger pull.
 

Q: What is the toughest finish for my gun ?

A: Black Teflon is the most corrosion resistant without a doubt, however, HardChrome is the toughest, and will basically never wear out and is extremely resistant to scratches and holster wear.  HardChrome is basically the equivalent of a super hardened stainless steel plating.
You can get HardChrome as well as Nickel in either "Matte" (glass bead blast dull finish),
"Satin" (a soft brushed semi gloss texture), or "High Polish" (like a mirror).
The Teflon is always a 100% flat non-reflective matte black coating.

Q: If I want to get my gun plated,
                  should I have you do your work before or after I get the plating done ?

A: Well . . . assuming that you do not want me to do the plating work, you should have the gun plated BEFORE my work, not after.  Be SURE that the plater does NOT plate ANY internal parts, as it changes tolerances and adds porosity.  This is exactly the reason you want to plate it before my work.  If I do the work and then you have it plated, parts like the hammer, slide, etc.,  that you will undoubtingly have plated, will no longer have the smooth mirror finish I put on them and you will wonder what happened to that smooth function you just paid me for.
When I do the plating, I do the smoothing BOTH before and AFTER I do the plating, that is why some of my plating prices cost more than a "job shop" plater.  Please also note that if you send me a gun that does have the internal parts plated, I will not be able to give you the same quality of work, and often will have to charge you extra to remove the plating on certain internal parts, or, on rare occasion, I will refuse to work on it altogether (only if the internals are plated with NP3 or nickel).

Q: Why does your action job cost more than some of your competitors ?

A: First of all, I do not feel as though I have any competitors.
I do a very special service and while there are many other gunsmiths out there, some good and some bad, I feel that my work is unique.
My only true response to that question is, take apart one of the guns that I have re-worked, and do the same to one done by another gunsmith.  I'm sure that when you inspect the internal parts you will clearly see where all my time & labor goes into.  As you can read on my "TJ Info" web page, I have taken the time & the challenge to go beyond the "normal' gunsmithing techniques and have, by doing so, learned many "tricks" to make each action work better than those done by others.  These "tricks" can ONLY be learned by years of trial & error experience, and experimentation on my own prototype guns.
I have pioneered many ideas in the handgun field, some are acknowledged but most are not, as with so many inventors and innovators of our century and the last.

Q: Why does your plating cost more than some of your competitors ?
A: My refinishing prices may INITIALLY appear higher then some of my competitors.
This is because my plating prices also include metal preparation both BEFORE AND AFTER the actual plating.  This is the ONLY way to fully assure that any unwanted porosity will be eliminated and thus not effect the function parts.
My plating prices also include cleaning up and inspecting all related internal parts,
as well as properly fitting all the parts back together after plating, NOT just slopping everything back together and saying "it fits good enough".
ASK MY COMPETITORS IF THEY DO ALL THIS . . . THEN COMPARE PRICING.

Q: What do you think about the new Sig's ?

A: As with nearly all things made today, the quality SEVERELY falls behind the quality of the same items made years earlier.  A gun made 5 years ago is MUCH better than one made today, and one made 10 years ago is MUCH better than that one !  The current cast hammers fall FAR behind the quality / workmanship / workability of the older machined hammers.
Now for specifics . . . the 245 = very good gun & design, the 232 = virtually the SAME as the 230, personally I prefer the 230, the SigPro = JUNK (some brain storm engineer  thought it was smarter to complicate the mechanism like the HK USP rather than stay with the excellent design of the other Sig line.)  Beretta = Don't sell them short !  They are the ONLY company that I can think of at this time that has NOT compromised the quality of their guns and design !
My sincere hat's off to Beretta !!!  I can't believe that S&W has the audacity to make & install a PLASTIC disconnector in some of their semi auto pistols !   That is only the 3rd most important part in the trigger mechanism !   If you buy a S&W that is 5 years old+ you should be ok .
I will however,  congratulate them on their excellent customer service though.
 

Q: What exactly is your "DayGlo"  sight highlighting and can you do it on night sights ?

A: My "Day-Glo" sight highlighting is a bright florescent color coating that I apply to the face of your front sight, it is very bright and draws your eye(s) to the front sight in the daytime.
It is very bright and is very resistant to most solvents.  It is available in Red, Orange, Yellow, and Green.  It does not have any effect in the night and does not glo in the dark, that is what Tritium night sights are for.  Yes, it can be applied to any sight, whether it's a stock sight, a dot sight, or a Tritium night sight.

Q: Why do you prefer Meprolight sights over the other brands ?

A: There are good and bad sights out there, and there are good and bad companies out there.
I have found that Meprolight has been absolutely the best company as far as brightness longevity,  and more importantly,  for standing behind their sights if & when they do go dead.
I have boycotted certain companies for 10 years + because of a severe lack of warrantee honor.  I don't want to name anyone in particular, but I'll say their name starts with a Trij !
Many other companies fall somewhere in between.

Q: Should I replace all my springs when you do the work ?

A: In MY opinion, NO.
Unless the gun has been used extensively without oil, the internals should be OK and not need any replacements.
That being said.... I DO fully inspect the gun internals when I take it apart for my action work, so if at the time of my inspection I see a weak/galled springs I will inform you then and advise replacement at that time. Typically I am able to polish out any galling and also re-tension the springs if needed which "usually" is enough to make the gun function as good as new.

Q: How much should I fire my gun before I send it in for your action work ?
        or  "How may rounds will it take to break in my gun?"

A: None, or as much as you want !
The myth that you need to shoot your gun to break it in is based on the false idea
that the metal is soft enough to "work in",  FORTUNATLY ... modern guns are NOT that soft !
Think of it like this ... if it were soft enough to "break in" in 500 rounds, then it would also
figure that it would also be soft enough to WEAR OUT in maybe 5000 right ?
It won't happen, except possibly in some cheap south american made guns.
You should shoot it just enough to feel the difference when you get it back from me !
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Q:  Can I use ANY ammo after you work on my action?

A:   Yes, you can use any ammo, but on the other hand, why spend the money to have it fine tuned if all you want to shoot is garbage?
Federal ammo has the best quality control as well as the softest primers (that means the most reliable detonation with a reduced mainspring.) Ammo I do NOT recommend using (for reliability reasons, but is just fine for range & target shooting) Fiocci, S&B (Sellier & Bellot), CCI or any ammo reloaded with CCI primers. Reloads ARE OK, but it is the PRIMER quality and IF you seat the primer PROPERLY that will make the difference, if they are seated TOO hard, or NOT deep enough, you WILL get misfires.

I have heard this a dozen times: "I had you work on my gun a few months ago, and now I am getting a few misfires"
I am ALWAYS willing to help you, and get your gun shooting good enough to make you a happy customer, but....
I will always explain the problem first, thus far, it has been 100% true in each case.
The problem is bad ammo, I always ask the customer to try good ammo, and if they still have a problem to PLEASE LET ME KNOW, so far everyone always confirms that it WAS the ammo.
Lets say you bought a nice old 1970 Camaro, then you dropped $30,000 into an engine for it to make it a 1/4 mile race car.....
Would you fill it up at "Thrifty Gas" with "Regular Low Octane - Low Grade" on your way to the track????
Probably not.
So why would you expect your finely tuned gun to function flawlessly with bargain basement ammo?
That being said, I am ALWAYS willing to increase the DA trigger pull so it WILL fire the junk ammo, all I ask is for you to pay the S/H, it don't matter if it is a week later or a year, my offer stands.

Q:  What ammo would you recommend for my CARRY gun?

A:  I always recommend and use the HEAVIEST bullet for any caliber, and only Federal brand.
In .45 I recommend 230gr, in .40 I recommend 180gr, in 9mm I recommend 147gr subsonic, and in .38 Special I recommend 148gr FULL wadcutter match ammo.

Q:  What do you recommend for cleaning & oiling of my gun?

A:   RIG #2 spray lube for CLEANING & bore scrubbing, although it is sold as a lube, I find it is wonderful for breaking down the carbon & powder residue, and lastly it will completely neutralize any acid from your hands / sweat.
NOTE: RIG#2 was discontinued at the end of 2007, if you can't find any, my second choice would be 'G96 Gun Treatment' (www.g96.com)
GunScrubber is great stuff for cleaning crud and old oil residue, BUT... it COMPLETELY removes all traces of oil, so... IF you use GunScrubber, you MUST MAKE 100% SURE YOU GET FRESH OIL IN EVERY AREA THAT THE GUNSCRUBBER HAS CONTACTED OR SEEPED INTO.
The above also applies to "DIP CLEANING" methods!!!
I STRONGLY recommend that you NEVER use a "Dip Cleaning Tank" method of cleaning your gun!
Do NOT DE-OIL ANY PART or part of your gun that you cannot RE-OIL!!!

I have tried MANY oils, there are a few good ones and many bad ones,
I recommend "Tetra Gun Lubricant" for oiling the gun.
Basically you want any HEAVY OIL, not a thin oil like Breakfree, and not a thick grease that will tar up after time.
CLICK HERE for photos of crutial OIL POINTS on Sig Sauer pistols.

Q:  What is the difference between NICKEL and HARDCHROME?

A:   Both finished can be Matte, Satin (Brushed), or High Polished.
The NICKEL is a more "goldish" hue, where the HARD CHROME is more of a silver to grey hue.
The hard chrome is a tougher / harder finish and more resistant to scuffing & scratches.
Both are great finishes, it is really a question of personal preference on the color of the finish.
 

Q:  Do you have any recommendations for a Holster?

A:   Well, to preserve the finish on the slide, the best is any nylon holster, the nest would be leather (preferable lined), and LASTLY would be Kydex/plastic as it will wear the slide finish the most.
If you want a NICE custom holster or any leather goods, I strongly recommend "Bulman Gun Leather" ( www.bulmangunleather.com ) a good honest guy & GREAT workmanship.
And if you want an off the rack holster, I would definetely buy Galco.

Q:  What EXACTLY is your "TJ SIG-SAFE" safety device?

A:   It is a push button safety installed on your Sig frame, it works very similar to that of a Remmington shotgun safety except that it will also lock the hammer & slide as well as the trigger.
CLICK HERE FOR MORE DETAILED INFORMATION ON THE TJ SIG-SAFE

Q:  Does the polish and removal of the protective blue coating on the internal leave the parts vulnerable to corrosion?

A:   Yes, and No, the parts are carbon steel and WILL rust if you leave it dry and unprotected.
BUT, the factory blue plating on the parts will ALSO NOT PROTECT them from rust!
ALWAYS keep the internals oiled, just like your car engine.
If you drove your car without oil, what would happen to the internal parts?
Same thing with your guns.
And let me add.... the WORST thing you can do is have your gun "tank dipped" or "tank cleaned" where they submerse the gun to completely clean it. That will clean it really good, but it will also REMOVE ALL OIL from the internal!
Again, in that case, I recommend RIG #2 SPRAY LUBE to get into any areas you are not able to oil manually.

Q:  What is the LEGALITY of shipping my gun to you?

A:   It IS legal to ship a gun to ANYONE (* Anyone legally able to posses a firearm.), without ammo, with any "common carrier" (UPS /FEDEX). Do NOT listen to the IGNORANT misinformation you might get from UPS or a "mail center".

MY "ADVICE"... At a the "UPS Store" (used to be Mailboxes Etc.), put "Machine Parts" on the slip for contents, NOT GUNS, or GUN parts, TECHNICALLY you are NOT lying!
Ship to "TJ's Custom" rather then "TJ's Custom Gunworks" as the addressee, it will eliminate problems for YOU trying to explain to ignorant clerks that it IS legal to ship guns.

The UPS link below is only THEIR rules, NOT law, but if you read CAREFULLY you will see this phrase inserted towards the bottom "Firearms will be transported only between x.x.x.x. AND between persons not otherwise prohibited from shipping firearms by federal, state or local law."
You must affix a UPS label requesting an "Adult Signature Required" for delivery per UPS requirements, not law.

This is UPS's official policy:
http://www.ups.com/content/us/en/resources/prepare/guidelines/firearms.html
Legally they cannot differentiate between "Overnight" and "2-Day Air", but that is THEIR policy and YOUR judgment call, I ship 2-Day Air unless requested otherwise. I do not know about FedEx rules.
Back up to "TJ's Shipping Directions."

Q:  Do you sell barrels, or what barrel do you recommend?

A:   I CAN sell you a factory Sig barrel, but NOT an aftermarket barrel.
Yes, BarSto barrels are very good, not much better then factory, but a little.
I can install it for you and polish out the machine marks & flaws, but I do not sell them because the delivery time is VERY UNRELIABLE. As for other manufacturers, I have only seen junk quality, so unless there is something new I don't know about, I do NOT recommend them.

Q:  Do you accept credit cards or checks?

A:   NO, I accept CASH - MONEY ORDERS - CASHIERS CHECKS . . . ONLY!
ALL gun work must be PREPAID, that means you MUST send payment in the box WITH your gun.

Q:  Why can't I talk to you on the phone?

A:   Well, you can, just not for free.
I AM available to advise you, but there is a $10 fee for it.
Please DO email me for FREE though.
I'll bet your lawyer charges you for phone time?
Please read my NEW POLICIES web page.

Q:  Can I drop off my gun to you?

A:   YES, but there is a $100 fee.
Just like a Doctor visit or Lawyer's session.
Please read my NEW POLICIES web page.

Q:  Can you convert a P229 to double action only, if so how much would it cost w/ a trigger job?

A:   YES! NO PROBLEM! 229, 226, 228, 220, 245
The fee is $35 in addition to action work or a LEVEL 1 PACKAGE, or $85 alone.

Q:  What is the difference between the "Bobbed Hammer" and the "Semi Bobbed Hammer" ?

A:   The "Bobbed Hammer" is a FULL bob, you will NOT be able to manually cost the hammer back without racking the slide, it is the best for liability defense though.
The "Semi Bobbed Hammer" is more like rounding off the rear of the hammer, I remove the rear serrations that drag on clothing, but I deepen the front cocking serrations so you can cock it faster and more positive if needed.

Q:  If you were to do a Level 1 or action job on my Sig would the single action slack (take-up) be removed or minimized?

A:   NO, it will be SIGNIFICANTLY smoothed and lightened up, but I cannot remove any of the actual "travel" of the pull or you will render the DA mode nonfunctional.

Q:  How light can you make the trigger pull on my Sig DAK model?

A:   Each gun is different.
On the 229DAK that I have worked on arrive here at about 9-10 lbs, and leave at about 7-8lbs
I know this is contrary to what you have read, but this is REAL LIFE measurements "direct pull back" on MY scale, not mock-up measurements for a magazine article.

Q:  Can you install night sights in my "xxxxx" gun?

A:   Yes, whether there are factory night sights available, or not, there is a 99% chance that I CAN get Tritium night sight inserts installed into your gun.

Q:  How much would it be to install a compensator on my Sig or Beretta?

A:   Beretta barrel & fitting (with Throat & Polish) is $395, or you can thread your existing barrel to install a comp on it.
My standard comp is $600 + refinishing if you want it, + S/H
Custom compensators can run $1000-$1500 depending on how many ports, full profile or 1/2 profile, etc.
I can make ANY comp YOU design, it is only a matter of cost and if it is worth it for YOU.

Sig is all the same except prices you NEED to buy an extended barrel, and I don't sell them, you have to go buy one from BarSto, because or their very poor/unreliable delivery times, I don't get involved with that aspect of it.
BarSto Sig Barrel = http://www.barsto.com/category_main.cfm?ID=SSB
Barrel fitting (with Throat & Polish) can run from $100-$195 depending on if you get the "drop-in" or "match" barrel, and if you want the nasty machine marks polished out of the outside surfaces.

.
Q: I still have questions, how can I contact you ???

A: Your first & easiest way to contact me is to E Mail me your questions.
If you write BRIEF questions, and separate them in INDIVIDUAL lines, I will be able to address each question much better and more directly.
The other alternative is to send me $10 cash or money order and I will call you back.
( Please try to include the best times to call you in the afternoon or evenings. )
I know there will be some people out there that will view this solely as arrogance, it is not.
I used to spend 50%-70% of my "open hours" talking and answering questions for free and getting paid nothing for this service.
As of  "March 20, 2000" I am no longer be a free directory assistance and free data bank.
I am very glad to continue to provide the service to you, only I want some compensation for my time,
I don't think I am being that unreasonable,  do you ?
I feel that if someone is willing to send me $10 then they are probably serious, and if they are not willing to part with $10 then they are probably looking for free advice.
At least if they do send the $10 I will be getting paid a LITTLE for my time & professional advice, right ?

Please mail payment for parts etc to :

Please ship your gun(s) here :            NOTE: THE ADDRESS BELOW IS FOR SHIPPING ONLY - NO DROP OFFS!